Gloam & Gorse

Highlands · at dusk

Walking to
the Wrath

From the southern edge of the Highland Boundary Fault to the last lighthouse before the north Atlantic. A month of peat, river crossings and empty bothies, south to north, without going home in between.

~560 kmMilngavie → lighthouse
27 dayson foot
~14,000 mtotal ascent
5resupply parcels

01 · The route

Two ways, one line

Waymarked path to Fort William, then trackless ground north. Tap any point for the fiche; the map is indicative, not a GPX.

Re-check nearer the timeLoch Lomond camping byelaws (Mar–Sep permits), Cape Wrath firing times, and the Kyle of Durness ferry & Durness minibus timetables can shift year to year.

The route

real map · tap a point
Cape Wrath58.63°N 5.00°W
West Highland Way Cape Wrath Trail

0km cumulative
—section
—elevation at point

02 · Elevation

The line, vertically

Each dot is a stage. Hover to preview, click to focus the map and fiche. Cape Wrath does most of its climbing after Fort William.

km 0 · Milngavie km 156 · Fort William km 560 · Cape Wrath

03 · Stages

Twenty-two waypoints

Tick a stage off as you go — progress persists on this device. Selection syncs with map and elevation.

Walked so far

0 / 22 stages

04 · Season

When to set off

Three constraints stack over a Scottish year. The clean window is narrow.

The window

May to mid-September

May is the sweet spot: long light, drier ground, midges not yet biting. Late August into mid-September gets you the second window, cooler and quieter, before the Cape Wrath range reopens to firing.

walkable window midges biting firing range closures

Ground state

Four conditions to watch

·
River fordsFisherfield, Knoydart, Sourlies
72h after rain
Wait it out — the Abhainn Srath na Sealga past Shenavall is the crux; carry two spare days of food.
·
MidgesHighlands wide
June → late Aug
Full net for camp; still and damp evenings are worst, breeze on ridges is a relief.
·
Cape Wrath firingMoD Cape Wrath range
Monthly notice on GOV.UK
Search “Cape Wrath firing times” for the current month; call Range Control 01971 511242 the week before. Red flags flying means no entry, whatever the notice says.
·
Loch Lomond byelawsManaged east-shore zone
1 Mar – 30 Sep
£4.30 per tent per night in the managed zone; book up to four weeks ahead at lochlomond-trossachs.org. A byelaw review may change the rules from 2027.

05 · Resupply parcels

Five drops, north-bound

Post ahead to hostels, hotels and the community shop. Two days of buffer per parcel, gas bought locally, chocolate over-catered.

Confirm each address by email firstSmall businesses shift openings year to year. A parcel that arrives before you've written costs no more than one that arrives after.
1
Fort WilliamDay 8 · km 156
Post 10 days before
4 days food for the leg to Shiel Bridge, spare socks, midge net, plasters. Last supermarket for a week.
2
Shiel BridgeDay 14 · km 271
Post 14 days before
4 days food to Kinlochewe, blister care refill, spare battery. Petrol-station shop for anything missed.
3
UllapoolDay 20 · km 405
Post 18 days before
7 days food to the finish, last chance for anything — supermarket, outdoor shop, pharmacy. Send clean clothes here for the exit.
4
KinlocheweDay 17 · km 340 · fallback
Optional
Small hotel shop — split the Shiel Bridge parcel if you're moving slower than planned.
5
DurnessPost-walk · finish
Post 21 days before
Clean clothes, phone charger, a book. Waiting for the ferry and minibus is more comfortable in dry cotton.

06 · Access

Paris to Milngavie, and back

Rail out via London, ferry-and-bus back from the top. Direct trains from Glasgow reach the start in twenty minutes.

Book the far-north linksThe Cape Wrath minibus and ferry are seasonal (May–Sep) and can be cancelled by weather, tide or firing; the minibus needs a minimum party to run. The Durness→Inverness bus (805) runs six days a week — reserve it. Prices are indicative; confirm before travelling.

Outbound

Paris → Milngavie

Rail2h20Paris Nord → London St PancrasEurostar; book 3 months out€60–160
Tube30 minSt Pancras → EustonNorthern Line, one stop, or walk it£3
Rail4h30London Euston → Glasgow CentralAvanti West Coast; sit on the west side after Penrith£40–90
Rail22 minGlasgow Queen St → MilngavieScotRail; the obelisk is five minutes' walk from the station£4

Return

Cape Wrath → Paris

Minibus~1hCape Wrath lighthouse → ferry slipCape Wrath Minibus; May–Sep, needs a minimum party to run — or walk the 11-mile track£15–20
Ferry10 minKyle of Durness → Keoldale pierFoot passengers, cash to the ferryman; tide-dependent, pauses near low water~£7
Road~1hKeoldale → Durness villageA few miles by road — walk, taxi or hitch—
Bus 8053h35Durness → InvernessThe Durness Bus (Far North Bus); six days a week, booking recommended~£20
Rail3h30Inverness → EdinburghScotRail; or the Caledonian Sleeper straight to London£30–50
Rail~10hEdinburgh → London → ParisOvernight in London, or through in a long day£120–220

07 · Budget

Indicative total

A month on the trail with a mix of camping, bothies and paid beds. Excludes flight-home comforts and kit already owned.

Travel to and fromRail Paris↔Milngavie, bus & ferry from Cape Wrath
€450
Food & parcels27 days, incl. postage to 5 drops
€520
Beds & campsites~10 paid nights; bothies free
€360
Pubs, cafés, hot mealsOne a week keeps morale intact
€180
ContingencyWeather day, taxi out, replacement gear
€200
Permits & small feesLoch Lomond byelaws, bothy honesty box
€30
Estimated total · Paris to Paris≈ €1,740

08 · Kit

Specific to the north

On top of a standard three-season kit, these items are what Cape Wrath adds. Ounces spent on comfort you'll actually use.

Navigation & safety

  • OS Landranger sheets for the route confirm the set; paper backup
  • GPS with full CWT track loaded Garmin / phone
  • Compass set to local declination ~1°W in 2026, drifting
  • Personal Locator Beacon rented UK
  • Whistle & foil bivvy survival minimum

Wet ground

  • Waterproof boots, not shoes ankle support in peat
  • Gaiters, knee-high bog protection
  • Trekking poles river fords + Devil's Staircase
  • Dry bags for everything in pack double up sleep kit
  • Spare socks × 3 rotate; hang the wet pair off pack

Midge & weather

  • Midge head-net fine mesh; two spares
  • Smidge or DEET repellent refill from parcel 2
  • Full-length waterproofs jacket + trousers
  • Fleece + warm hat + gloves Highland summers are cold
  • Tent with sewn-in groundsheet bothies fill up

Food, fuel, admin

  • Gas stove & two spare canisters bought locally
  • 1,500 kcal per pack-day, dense oats, cheese, cured meat
  • Water treatment: filter + tablets peat run-off is safe with either
  • Powerbank 10,000 mAh + solar strap 4-day stretches between plugs
  • Cash £200 bothies, ferry, small shops